Furniture Making Supplies

What's the best finish for kitchen cabinets and other high-wear furniture?

For surfaces that take daily abuse, such as kitchen doors, worktops, and tabletops, a durable lacquer or a hardwax oil is usually the choice. Lacquers give a harder, more chemical-resistant film and are easier to spray for repeatable results across batches of doors, so see our Industrial Lacquers. Hardwax oils such as Osmo Polyx Oil and Fiddes Hard Wax Oil are easier to repair locally and give a more natural feel. Check the technical data sheet for abrasion and chemical resistance if you're finishing for a client with specific requirements.

Should I use water-based or solvent-based finishes in a small workshop?

Water-based finishes dry faster, have lower odour and VOC content, and clean up with water, which suits workshops with limited ventilation or where finishing happens close to other work. Solvent-based finishes can offer better flow, longer open time, and richer colour depth on some timbers. The right choice depends on your extraction, the timber, and the look you're after.

What grit sequence should I follow before finishing?

This depends on the timber and the finish. As a general rule, work through the grits without skipping more than one step (for example P120, P150, then P180 or P240). Stop earlier for oil and other penetrating finishes, which can struggle to absorb into an over-polished surface. For film-forming finishes, many finishers denib between coats with a fine abrasive such as Mirka Abralon discs or Mirka Mirlon hand pads. Always follow the specific product's technical data sheet.

How do I avoid grain raising with water-based finishes?

Lightly dampen the sanded surface, allow it to dry, then sand off the raised fibres with a fine grit before applying your first coat. This "pre-raising" step helps prevent a rough feel after the first coat of finish.

What abrasives are best for machine sanding versus hand sanding?

Machine sanding suits larger flat surfaces, and dust extraction matters as much as the abrasive. Net-backed abrasives like Mirka Abranet are designed to work with an extracted sander, and are available as discs, strips, and rolls to suit most machines. Hand sanding is better for profiles, edges, and between-coat denibbing, where flexible pads and rolls conform better. Match the abrasive size and hole pattern to your sander and backing pad.

What's the difference between a wood filler, a stopper, and an epoxy filler for repairs?

Wood fillers suit minor gaps and surface defects, and some can be sanded and stained. Stoppers are typically used for nail holes and small imperfections and can be colour-matched. Epoxy suits structural repairs or larger voids, offering strength and stability. [West System Epoxy is available in a range of pack sizes, with fast and slow hardeners to suit the size of the job and working temperature. Epoxy repairs often take stain differently to the surrounding timber, so test first if the repair will be visible.

Which adhesives should I use for joinery and furniture assembly?

PVA wood glues are the standard for most interior joinery, and water resistance varies by grade (D2, D3, D4), so check the rating against where the piece will be used. The Titebond range covers this: Titebond Original for general interior work, Titebond II where more water resistance is needed, and Titebond III for the most demanding conditions. Consider open time and clamp time for larger assemblies.

When should I use grain filler on furniture?

Grain filler is useful when a particularly smooth, level surface is required before finishing, especially on open-grained woods where the pores would otherwise remain visible. Jenkins Jecofil Grain Filler is a traditional option for filling the grain before subsequent finishing, particularly where a flat, refined surface is required.

Can I use the same finish on MDF, veneered boards, and solid timber?

Often yes, but the preparation differs. MDF edges absorb finish heavily and typically need sealing or priming first. Veneered boards need careful sanding to avoid sanding through the veneer. Solid timber can react differently depending on species, particularly oily or tannin-rich woods. Test on offcuts of each material before committing to a full run.

How do I get a consistent colour when staining across different timber batches?

Natural variation between boards affects how stain takes. Mix enough stain for the whole job in one batch, and always test on an offcut from the actual project timber rather than a sample board. Spirit-based dyes such as Liberon Spirit Wood Dye dry quickly, so work in manageable sections and keep a wet edge.

How long should I leave a finish to cure before delivery or installation?

Dry to the touch and fully cured are different things. A surface may be handleable within hours but need days or even weeks to reach full hardness and chemical resistance. Check the technical data sheet for cure times, and allow extra time in cold or humid conditions, particularly for pieces going to a client's home.

Do you stock products that aren't listed in this collection?

Yes. If you're looking for a specific product, call us on 01285 831668 Monday - Friday 8am-5pm and we'll be happy to help you order it. Next day delivery is available for orders placed by 4pm.