Many of us have an undesirable image of an orange pitch pine floor with a glossy plastic looking varnish. My thoughts are of an old village hall floor or the 1970s house accompanied by avocado porcelain. This look isn’t currently particularly popular, and maybe for good reason!
Uses of Pine wood that the white washing methods below can be applied to include:
Questions around how to make Pine lighter or stop it from going orange are one of the most queried topics that we get asked over the phones on a daily basis.
Before we get into the nitty gritty of the techniques and finishes required to get the limed or light rustic look on pine, it’s important to understand the root of what causes Pine timber to turn the undesirable orange hues.
First we need to look at the properties of pine wood. One of the disadvantages of pine as a wood is that it’s resinous as a conifer tree.
There are up to 120 different varieties of pine and all have varying degrees of the resinous property. This needs to be taken into account when choosing a finish. A more resinous Pine, such as Pitch Pine, will have a far more pronounced colour. If a white water based dye is used over a new Pitch Pine board, it will yellow. However, if a lighter, less resinous pine such as Spruce is used, the dye won’t discolour at all. It’s also worth noting that if the boards are more than 10 years old, most of the resins will have escaped or dried, so a good sand should prime the surface nicely.
As the pine wood ages, with the help of UV from the sunlight it tends to turn more of an orange colour. In a similar way, as Oak oxidises with time, it tends to darken to a very dark brown and in some cases, black. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder here, and it is up to the beholder to decide whether they might like the warmer patina or pale modern look.
If you would like to maintain the natural beauty of the pine, and don’t mind the ageing process, we recommend that you use a water based varnish, such as the Liberon Natural Finish Floor Varnish or the Polyvine Heavy Duty Extreme Varnish. Unlike any wood oils, these water based products won’t make the pinewood more yellow-orange, keeping it the existing tone.
Any oil based varnish or oil has a linseed or tung oil element that accentuates the colour of the wood grain, making the colour pop. On hardwoods, with decorative grain and more muted tones, this is often more desirable. However, for softwoods such as Pine and Redwood, as the grain is more open and absorbs more, the colour can become too vivid for many people’s taste.
It is important to note that all wood reacts differently to stains and finishes so it is highly recommended to thoroughly test to get a formula which produces the finish you're looking for prior to attempting the entire project.
How do you lighten old orange pine or white wash pine floors and furniture?
We recommend two options to make the pine a bleached, pale colour, without the use of harmful chemicals:
Preparation
Caution: If the boards look old and look like they may have had woodworm at some point, be very cautious or even avoid sanding the boards. The little holes are exit points and when you sand the boards you will expose a network of channels which you won’t be able to cover.
The pine will need to be sanded with a P120 to P180 grit sandpaper to fully prepare the wood and take out the aged colour and remove any previous finish. This is important to be done thoroughly before. If the previous finish has not been fully removed it can cause the white stain to look patchy once finished as it will absorb in some parts of the boards and not others.
When applying either a stain, varnish or Hard Wax Oil on a floor or board, it is a common mistake to apply across the board rather than down it. Complete one board at a time and apply with the direction of the wood grain for best results
Option 1)
Best for old or less resinous Pine, such as Spruce
We recommend using the Liberon Palette Wood Dye in white as the stain of choice. It gives a great coverage and even undiluted gives a semi translucent tone over the pine. Obviously, if you wish to have a more transparent white, you can dilute it easily with water. We would recommend testing this thoroughly before on an off cut or discrete area of the same wood.
Pros:
Cons
Option 2)
Best for newer or more resinous Pine, such as Pitch Pine
If the pine is under 5 years old, it’s important to apply Liberon knotting over any knots before applying Oil. This will seal the knots and prevent any seepage of yellow resin as time passes that will discolour the pale finish.
A natural or raw hard wax oil is probably the most straightforward option, but you do need to test and make sure the area is sanded properly prior to application. These hard wax oils have a touch of white pigment to offset the natural yellowing of the oil in the pine wood grain.
Another approach would be to apply a white hard wax oil as an initial coat, wiping the excess off with the grain, to leave the white pigment in the open grain.
After leaving it for 9-12 hours, apply subsequent coat(s) of the natural or raw oil to build the protection. This will give more of a limed effect rather than a white wash. To get the best results with this method it would be best to open up the pine grain with a brass brush so it can capture more of the white pigment.
Pros:
Cons:
If you wish a Rustic Brown colour instead of a white pine or a pale pinewood floor, use option 1) but instead test brown shades from the Liberon Palette wood dye range. Colours include Antique Pine, Light Oak or Golden Pine.
You’re probably wondering why we have left our Liming Wax or paste from our recommendations. Pine wood grain, unless heavily worn, is very flat. This means that the liming paste or wax can’t sit in it. Also having a white wax finish on a pale wood floor can trap in the dirt making it look grubby.
As mentioned earlier, staining or colouring wood is a trial and error exercise and not an exact science. Results vary based on the type, age, moisture, and wear of the surface grain being applied to. Hence, it is highly recommended to test on an off cut of the same wood or an inconspicuous area before taking on the whole project.
If you have any questions about this subject or blog, our friendly and knowledgeable team is available to help you Monday to Saturday, 9am-5pm. Our email address is enquiries@restorate.co.uk and phone number 01285 831668.
]]>What is an orbital sander?
Mirka are known for producing world class sanding tools. The vast majority of these power tools are defined as orbital sanders, or random orbital sanders. Orbital sanders are simply power tools that sand in a series of circles, ensuring a smooth finish. On the other hand, random orbital sanders combine this circular motion with a random back and forth motion. These two movements combined create a smoother and more even finish, as the sander pad moves in an overlapping figure of eight. The orbit size listed on a product is simply the diameter of the orbit’s swing. Generally, the larger the orbit size the more abrasive the action will be and vice versa.
All sanders utilise an abrasive material that is attached to the sanding pad. This can be sandpaper, or increasingly sanding discs. Both of these can be purchased in a wide range of grit sizes so as to achieve the desired finish.
How to use an orbital sander
Mirka orbital sanders are an excellent power tool which will ensure a high quality finish. However, the highly powered nature of these tools means it is important to use them in the correct manner to avoid damage to your sander or project.
The first, and most important rule is to always keep your orbital sander flat. If you see any high spots or irregularities avoid the temptation to tilt your sander to focus on this section. Instead, sand down the offending area by hand before reintroducing your sander. This will not only allow the sander to work at its optimum, but will also protect the exposed edge of the backing pad from coming into contact with the wood.
Placing - or parking - your sander on the material you are about to sand before you turn it on is of paramount importance to protect both your project and your powertool. If a running sander is set down there is a risk it will dig into the material, scratching it and potentially damaging the sander. This is why the sander should not be lifted and placed down when sanding but rather moved across the surface from side-to-side.
Whilst it is the sander that is doing the mechanical work, the abrasive is the actual material in contact with your project. Therefore, it is essential that you use the correct grit to achieve your desired aim. A higher grit number indicates a finer abrasive, which results in a smoother finish. On the flip side lower grit numbers signal a coarser abrasive that will remove stock a lot more rapidly. It is important to note that abrasives are designed to be used in conjunction with one another; you cannot just chuck on a super fine abrasive and expect to get a great result. Instead, work our way steadily up through the grades.
One of the most common mistakes made with orbital sanders is to apply downwards pressure onto the item you are sanding. Pushing down on your sander will not make it work any quicker. What it will do is mark and damage your project and potentially your sander.
Another common mistake made by new owners is to move the sander across the material far too quickly. Orbital sanders are different from belt sanders and manual sanding in that they do not require constant, rapid movement. In fact, orbital sanders need the opposite to achieve uniform results. Be patient, and use slow deliberate actions moving your sander roughly one inch per second across your project.
As durable and robust as Mirka power tools are, they can still be broken by foolish or violent actions. As many of Mirka’s sanders are electrically powered - and attached to a vacuum - there are often a number of wires, cables, and pipes attached to the sanders, The attachments are a natural point of weakness for any powertool, and it is therefore advised to always keep slack on the cable and avoid yanking the tool at any point.
Whilst it will be evident when the abrasive disc or paper is worn out, knowing when to replace the sander’s backing pad can take some figuring out. Generally an increase in the amount of time it takes to complete work, inconsistent finishes, and scratches can all be signs of a worn out and deformed backing pad. If using your orbital sander regularly it is advised to replace the backing pad on a monthly basis to avoid these issues.
Five reasons to invest in Mirka
Located and manufactured in Finland, Mirka have become renowned the world over for their excellent product design. So much so that they have won a prestigious Red Dot industrial design award. What this means for you is products that are light, comfortable, and easy to use for prolonged periods of time. Many of Mirka sanders, such as the Mirka DEROS sander, also come with easily manipulated speed controls. This feature allows you to alter the rpm of the sander with the simple press of a button.
It is not just the sanders themselves which benefit from Mirka’s innovative design. Understanding that a sander is only as good as its abrasive, Mirka has designed abranet, a revolutionary abrasive material with an open mesh design that prevents clogging, ensures dust free sanding, and guarantees an unparalleled, uniform finish. Not only does abranet result in a superior finish but the abrasive material typically lasts twice as long as others, making it a cost effective option.
Furthermore, Mirka is just as committed to sustainability as they are to excellence. A fact typified by their position as a founding member of the Sustainable European Abrasives Manufacturer program and through their Clean Commitments. These pledges and actions mean Mirka are on the forefront of environmentally friendly sanding, setting the European standard for sustainability.
Mirka have long prioritised dust free sanding, as dust inhalation has been proven to cause swelling of the lungs. This in turn can lead to scar tissue developing in a dangerous process called fibrosis. By designing sanders that remove dust instantly, Mirka products greatly minimise the health risks associated with sanding. In addition to this Mirka have launched myMirka, an online app which tracks the amount of vibrations your hands are exposed to providing you with the information to avoid debilitating injuries, such as hand-arm vibration syndrome developing.
Dust free sanding not only means protection from damaging particles, but also that tidying times are slashed after a job's completion. For the DIYer this means less time spent on chores, whilst for industry professionals it ensures less time - and therefore wages - are spent on a job. In fact, the full range of Mirka products will save you money and time in the long run. This is because both Mirka’s tools and abrasives are powerful, resulting in stock being removed quickly and efficiently. To put it simply, all types of jobs will take a shorter duration to complete, minimising costs and improving profit margins.
Evaluating your project and deciding what equipment you need is a vital stage of any job. This is doubly true when sanding because different profiles, materials, and items all need unique attention if they are to be brought to a uniform finish. Fortunately, Mirka sanders are compatible with a range of accessories, from a variety of backing pads to a number of differently shaped interfaces. Utilising this range will save you time and result in the best finish possible.
All Mirka power tools, including palm sanders, have a two-year warranty as standard which covers both defects in the product material and its workmanship. Furthermore, Mirka offers the option of an extra years warranty for those who register their power tool within 30 days of purchasing. All repairs performed under warranty will be free of charge. Whilst repairs are rarely necessary thanks to Mirka’s industrious design and high standards, it is a comfort to know your power tool is so comprehensively covered.
Where to buy a Mirka sander
As an official Mirka partner, Restorate stocks a comprehensive range of quality guaranteed Mirka products, accessories, and abrasives. Not only will you have access to the best orbital sanders on the market, but our dedicated, skilled support team will be able to answer any queries you may have about any Mirka products. Finally, Restorate’s commitment to next working day delivery means you can have whatever Mirka product you need, exactly when you need it.
What is Mirka’s range Orbital Sanders
Why should you use wood preservers?
As an organic material, wood is naturally prone to degrading over time. For wood that is left exposed to the elements, such as garden furniture, sheds, and fences the process of degradation will occur much more rapidly than wood that is under shelter or indoors.
The frustratingly changeable nature of Britain’s weather ensures that exterior wood is at risk of suffering from a number of damaging processes over short time periods. Water, most commonly in the form of rain, poses a frequent and potentially damaging threat to wood as increased moisture can cause wood to swell, mould, and eventually rot, whilst unprotected wood left in dark damp conditions will turn an unattractive green due to the growth of algae.
Prolonged and intense exposure to the sun’s UV rays also damages wood fibres and can cause planks, beams, and frames to warp and crack. Wood boring insects, such as the dreaded woodworm, also pose a risk to unprotected timber and can rapidly decimate exterior wood. As such, it is absolutely vital to invest in some form of exterior wood protection, lest wood start decaying before your eyes.
Wood preservers offer the most efficient and cost effective means of protecting against all the previously mentioned processes . As little as one application per year can extend the lifespan of your wood dramatically, meaning you can rest easy no matter what nature throws your way.
How do wood preservers work?
When applied, preservers stabilise the wood’s moisture levels and protect it from decay by acting as a protective barrier, repelling water and preventing invasive organisms from entering.
How do you use wood preservers?
There are three types of wood preservers: water-based wood preservers, oil-based wood preservers, and solvent-based wood preservers. All these preservers can be applied via two methods; with a suitable brush or an airless paint sprayer.
It is important to note that all types of wood preserver are best applied to raw, bare wood, be it freshly sawn or sanded down. You should use a brush to apply your wood preserver to smaller or more intricate pieces of timber. When applying preservers to larger surfaces such as fences, we recommend using a paint sprayer as this will save you a considerable amount of time.
Which wood preserver is best?
The answer to this question depends on a number of factors, but generally the best wood preservers are solvent-based, such as Barrettine’s Premier Wood Preserver. This is because solvent-based preservers are absorbed deeper into the wood, resulting in stronger and longer lasting protection. However, in certain circumstances - such as when treating wood in poorly ventilated areas - water-based products should be used as they are non-toxic and carry minimal odours.
Wood Preserver Feature Comparison
|
||||||
Name |
Base ingredient |
UV protection |
Rot and insect protection |
VOC |
Pre-treatment compatible |
Interior and exterior |
Barrettine Premier Wood Preserver (5L) |
Solvent |
Yes |
Yes |
Very high |
Yes |
Exterior |
Barrettine Wood Protective Treatment (5L) |
Solvent |
Yes |
Rot only |
Very high |
Yes |
Exterior |
Barrettine Premier Universal Preserver (5L) |
Solvent |
No |
Yes |
Very high |
No |
Both (interior structural timbers) |
Cuprinol Shed & Fence Protector (5L) |
Solvent |
Yes |
Yes |
High |
Yes |
Exterior |
Everbuild Lumberjack Triple Action Wood Treatment (5L) |
Water |
No |
Yes |
Low |
No |
Both |
Barrettine Log Cabin & Complete Decking Treatment (5L) |
Solvent |
Yes |
Rot only |
Very high |
Yes |
Exterior |
Liberon Extreme Wood Stain (2.5L) |
Water |
Yes |
Rot only |
Low |
Yes |
Exterior |
Liberon Exterior Wood Protector (5L) |
Water |
Yes |
Rot only |
Low |
Yes |
Exterior |
Barrettine Creosolve |
Oil |
No |
Yes |
Low |
Yes |
Exterior |
Ronseal Ultimate Fence Life |
Water |
Yes |
Rot only |
Low |
Yes |
Exterior |
What is the best time of year to apply wood preservers?
Wood preservers are best absorbed and most easily accepted when wood is warm and dry. The summer months are therefore an ideal time to get outside and commit some time to exterior wood protection.
But as we well know, DIY and restoration does not always adhere to carefully plotted timetables. If you find yourself running out of summer months do not panic; at a stretch wood preserver could be applied up till October. We would not recommend using it any later than this as exterior wood becomes progressively wetter during the autumn and winter months. Applying preserver to wet wood is a futile exercise as both oil-based and solvent-based preservers - due to their oil content - will be rejected, whilst water-based preservers will not be absorbed by the already saturated wood, resulting in unprotected wood and wasted product.
Do you need to apply a wood preserver if using treated wood?
It is advisable to apply preserver to previously treated timber, as this will improve your timbers protection and help prevent cracking. We recommend using solvent-based wood preservers on treated wood as this will benefit all types of timber, regardless of the treatment method that was previously used.
Is wood preserver bad for the environment?
As mentioned previously, water-based wood preservers are non-toxic. As such, they contain low levels of volatile organic compounds (VOCs). This would lead us to suggest water-based preservers if minimising environmental impact is your number one priority. Solvent-based preservers generally have higher VOC counts but as with water-based preservers, these will evaporate rapidly on application and safely disperse in well-ventilated areas, meaning environmental impact should be minimal.
How often is it recommended to reapply wood preserver?
Applying an annual top up coat is the optimal means of protecting your exterior wood, but if that to-do list is looking extra long this summer, don’t sweat it. Wood preservers can be left for two years before being reapplied. However, leave it any longer than this and you risk irreversible damage occurring to your exterior wood.
Wood Preserver Coverage Comparison |
|||||
Name |
Coats required |
Coverage |
Drying time |
Price per litre |
Estimated price per sq.m (per coat) |
Barrettine Premier Wood Preserver (5L) |
2-3 |
5-6m2/L |
6-12 hours |
£6.79 |
£1.13 - £1.36 |
Barrettine Wood Protective Treatment (5L) |
2 |
6m2/L |
24-48 hours |
£4.59 |
£0.77 |
Barrettine Premier Universal Preserver (5L) |
2-3 |
6.25m2/L |
24 hours |
£7.51 |
£1.20 |
Cuprinol Shed & Fence Protector (5L) |
2-3 |
15m2/L |
48+ hours |
£5.19 |
£0.35 |
Everbuild Lumberjack Triple Action Wood Treatment (5L) |
2 |
3-4m2/L |
Under 1 hour |
£6.29 |
£1.57 - £2.10 |
Barrettine Log Cabin & Complete Decking Treatment (5L) |
1-2 |
5-8m2/L |
48-72 hours |
£8.65 |
£1.08 - £1.73 |
Liberon Extreme Wood Stain (2.5L) |
2-3 |
12m2/L |
24 hours |
£13.14 |
£1.10 |
Liberon Exterior Wood Protector (5L) |
2 |
12m2/L |
24 hours |
£12.01 |
£1.00 |
Barrettine Creosolve |
2 |
6-8m2/L |
24-48 hours |
£3.09 |
£0.39 - £0.52 |
Ronseal Ultimate Fence Life |
2 |
6-8m2/L |
24 hours |
£2.59 |
£0.32 - £0.43 |
What if I want my timber to be both grey and protected?
The aesthetic of weathered, grey timber is pleasingly rustic and growing in popularity. But all too often having pleasantly weathered timber comes at the cost of leaving your wood unprotected. Wood left in this manner is vulnerable and will begin to deteriorate rapidly.
Fortunately, the use of clear wood preservers - such as Liberon Exterior Wood Protector and Barrettine’s Premier Universal Preserver - means you can protect your timber without ruining its delicate, grey colour. These wood preservers are completely transparent and result in no yellowing, making them ideal candidates for those wishing to maintain a weathered image whilst also protecting the wood's structural integrity.
Can I apply a wood preserver to all exterior wood surfaces?
In short, yes. Restorate’s extensive collection of wood preservers ensures that you can find the correct product for your project. Whether you need preservers for garden furniture and window frames, or ones suited to larger items like doors, fences, or carports, we have the right product for you.
Can I use a wood preserver inside my shed or cabin?
The majority of preservers are suitable for use inside wooden sheds or log cabins provided that these areas are well ventilated. You must not apply solvent-based wood preservers - or dry coated items - in poorly ventilated areas, as the high VOC count will present a danger to human and environmental health. For these very same reasons solvent-based wood preservers are not suitable for use on wood inside your house.
If your shed or log cabin is weathered we advise sanding the old wood down, or failing this scrubbing it clean. Utilising products such as Barrettine Wood Reviver at this stage will ensure aged, weathered wood regains its original colour and that any stubborn stains are removed. Sanding and/or cleaning your wood is a vital step to undertake before using wood preserver on weathered wood, as it maximises the wood's ability to absorb the preserver resulting in thorough and longer lasting protection.
Are wood preservers pet, garden, and child safe?
Once dry all wood preservers are safe. However, when applying the wood preserver, and throughout the drying process, it is best to keep all children and pets away from the treated area. This is because drying wood preservers still contain VOCs which can be harmful. For this reason we also advise careful application around plant life, as these compounds could damage them and the surrounding environment. If you will struggle to avoid plants when using a paint sprayer, please apply the wood preserver with a brush to avoid contamination.
Can I apply wood preservers over a previously finished piece of wood?
Wood preserver should not be applied directly onto finished timber as it will not be effectively absorbed. Furthermore, the coat of preserver may affect the colour and finish of your wood. If you wish to protect a piece of previously finished wood, you should strip it back before applying the preserver. Once the preserver is dry you can varnish, paint, or finish it in whatever manner suits you.
What is the best clear wood preserver?
One of our most popular clear wood preservers is Barrettine’s Universal Wood Preserver. This product is a low odour, solvent-based preserver that is deeply absorbed into wood, providing long lasting protection from fungi, decay, rot, and infestation, without altering the colour of your timber.
Do preservers or exterior paints need a primer?
Primers are absolutely necessary if the purchased timber has not been pre-treated. However, even pre-treated timber is vulnerable after a six to twelve month period. As such, it is always wise to use primers such as Barrettine Universal Preserver Primer, as it will not only protect untreated wood, but enhance pre-treated woods protection by preventing wet rot, algae and woodworm infestations. This specific primer also contains quality primer resins that provide more adhesion for paints, preservatives or varnishes.
What is the best wood preserver for log cabins?
At Restorate we recommend Barrettine’s Log Cabin & Complete Decking Treatment for use on log cabins as it contains a surface biocide to protect against mould and fungi. Furthermore, the inclusion of wax and other water repellent resins in this specific preserver means that the timber will not require a topcoat of varnish or paint to become water resistant.
What is the best wood preserver for treating woodworm?
Many wood preservers have a preventative biocide formula but none are as effective at treating woodworm as the Everbuild Triple Action wood treatment. This product preserves the wood comparably to the Barrettine Preservers but uses micro fine active technology that penetrates deep into the wood, killing any woodworm or dormant larvae that many other preservers would be unable to reach.
]]>Adding a lick of garden paint to your old fences, sheds, benches, flower pots and garden furniture can transform your outside space and make it appealing to enjoy again.
We are here to help with this ultimate guide to garden paint, with direct colour swatch comparison, and how to apply the paint for the best and longest lasting results.
So the garden is looking tired but the weather is getting warm. The fantasy of enjoying a cold Aperol on a hot day in a stylish garden seems far away.
Obviously we can’t control the English weather, but we can help you get your garden looking great in time for that long awaited heat wave.
The two main contenders on the market for the best garden paint are Ronseal Garden Paint and Cuprinol Garden Shades Paint. These two exterior paints give a solid, opaque colour. Unlike fence preservers, such as Cuprinol Shed and Fence Preserver and Barrettine Premier Wood Preserver, which are translucent, showing the wood grain and texture fully through the stain.
These garden paints are perfect to use on wood, brick, terracotta and metal. However, they aren’t recommended for plastics, iron or decking (as they’re not suitable to be walked on).
The first decision is obviously colour. Below are the complete colour swatches for both Cuprinol Garden Shades and Ronseal Garden Paint:
Cuprinol do tend to have certain, brighter, colours such as beach blue and dazzling yellow only in the smaller 1 litre tins.
They tend to be used on flower pots and chairs rather than "en masse" on fence panels - not to say you couldn't if you really wanted your garden to dazzle!
For a natural, country look, go for creams, pastel greens and light blues.
For a modern, urban look there are a range of dark and light greys, dark browns and off-whites.
For a classic and understated look use deeper colours such as garden darker green, browns, navy blues, contrasted with stone shades.
If you’re into playful splashes of colour mix it up with bright blues, yellows and pinks.
As with all large blocks of colour, the lighter the shade, the bigger the space will look, so consider going for lighter natural pastel colours.
Cuprinol Garden Shades will cover around 12 square metres per litre per coat, and 2 coats are recommended for the best results. The drying time can be up to 1 hour for each coat.
Ronseal Garden Paint offers a comparatively similar coverage at 12 square metres per litre per coat, but Ronseal recommend leaving it for 4 hours to dry between coats. Ronseal also boast that the paint is rainproof in 1 hour. It’s also recommended that 3 coats are applied for the best results, so you may need more compared to the Cuprinol Garden Paint.
It’s important to mention that if you are painting a rough sawn surface, such as a rough textured garden fence, you may need up to 3 times the amount of paint for the first coat as it fills between the fibres of wood.
Both of these paints are relatively thick water based paints. So, it’s best to go for a fine synthetic bristle paint brush to evenly apply the paint without holding too much in the bristles. It’s always best to buy a small brush for detail and a large brush for the larger areas.
Both of these finishes can be sprayed, which is a great way to reduce the amount of paint used.
Now you’ve bought the paint and it has safely arrived with you, it’s time to get ready to paint. Before you do anything it is always best to thoroughly mix the paint, scraping the bottom of the tin, mixing in any settled pigment.
Next, test the paint and combinations on an off cut or out of sight area to double check you like the colour and/or combination of colours.
All finishes can look different depending on the type and texture of the wood. Also, lighting on the surface can alter the appearance of the colour.
For the ultimate protection for Sheds, Fences and exterior joinery, use Barrettine Universal Preserver Primer before applying the first coat of paint. This product will protect against wet rot fungi and wood boring insects, whilst improving the adhesion of the paint with its quality primer resins.
Preparation differs depending on the material you are painting onto:
Smooth wood, such as garden furniture: lightly sand with a P120-180 grit sandpaper, brush off dust and wipe over with white spirit. Allow to dry before painting.
Rough wood fences or sheds: brush off any dirt, dust or cobwebs with a stiff bristled brush.
Brick, terracotta or stone: brush off loose dust and dirt with a stiff bristled brush and wipe to remove finer dust.
Metal: wipe down with white spirit and use a suitable metal primer to make sure the paint lasts longer.
Once the surface is clean and dry, it’s time to get painting!
Stir the paint really well just before painting, scraping the bottom when mixing.
If you’re doing a large area with multiple tins, it’s always good practice to mix the contents of each tin together to avoid any slight colour shade discrepancy which sometimes occurs if the paint was made in separate batches.
If you’re painting wood, brush in the direction of the wood grain.
If you are painting a smooth surface, a light sand between coats can often help the paint stick to the previous layer better, helping it last longer.
These garden paints are water based so warm soapy water will clean your brushes and any mess made.
These garden paints can be cleaned with a dampened, lint-free cloth or with a garden furniture cleaner.
Ronseal Garden Paint and Cuprinol Garden Shades are very easy to use and not too dissimilar.
Cuprinol Garden Shades has the edge on paint coverage and colour range but both will transform your garden with relatively little stress and protect the surfaces applied to from the weather.
If you would like further guidance either before or after purchase, we would be very happy to have a chat with you. Call us on 01285 831668 or email us on enquiries@restorate.co.uk.
]]>Decking can take some punishment over the winter, so before you decide on a course of treatment for the year it’s worth knowing what to do in preparation. Good preparation is key in achieving the best results and durability for your chosen finish.
If your decking looks like the photo above, covered with algae moss and dead leaves, it’s always best to use a decking cleaner.
In the video below, we’ve used the Barrettine Super Concentrated Decking Cleaner, but the Liberon Tough Deck Clean and Revive, Ronseal Decking Cleaner and Reviver or Cuprinol Decking Cleaner will do a similar job. It’s important to note that some decking cleaners, usually in the smaller bottles are concentrated formulas, so once diluted in water apply with a watering can or sprayer, (for the purpose of the video we have used a paintbrush as it’s demonstrated on a small piece of decking) they will clean a wider surface whilst being lower in price and more eco-friendly as less plastic packaging is required.
Follow the easy steps in this video to get the best results.
These cleaners are powerful, so once applied (as shown in video), they will remove any pre-treatment or old Decking Oil. Hence, after the wood has dried fully (once rinsed), it is recommended that you apply a decking finish or preserver (Decking Oil, Paint or Stain) as soon as you can to protect the untreated wood. It is also important to wear gloves when applying these cleaners as they do “pack a punch”. However once rinsed the wood surface is both pet and child safe.
If your decking is flaking or peeling, this is because a Decking Stain or Paint was applied previously. Although a Decking Cleaner will remove some of the dirt and flakes with some scrubbing, the best products to use in this case are either Ronseal Decking Stripper or Cuprinol Stain Stripper. Once the Decking Stripper has been applied (video coming soon) and the paint or stain has been removed, it is best practice to wash your decking after to give the most adhering surface for the new finish to cling to, extending the life of the new finish and making it harder wearing.
If the cleaner mentions the word “Reviver” in the description they include a naturally occurring acid, Oxalic Acid, in the cleaning formula. Oxalic Acid helps remove some dark staining of the wood grain whilst restoring the original colour of the decking which is perfect if you intend to use a clear oil later and wish a rich natural colour of the wood to come through, as if the decking was new.
The more concentrated Oxalic Acid Gel formulas, Osmo Wood Reviver Power Gel and Barrettine Wood Reviver, are perfect for use on any exterior wood surface that has greyed due to UV exposure and weathering. Once applied, these will instantly restore the colour of the wood to a new appearance.
In summary, Decking Cleaners and Revivers are perfect for cleaning off dirty, mouldy and algae covered decking boards. They are also great for removing all Decking Oil, prior to applying a new finish. Wear gloves when applying and make the product go further by applying up each board (rather than across).
It’s always important to let your decking dry full before applying any finish. Once you have followed this guide the decking paint oil or stain you apply will look much better for far longer!
]]>
Hard Wax Oils are a blend of natural oils and waxes that provide a hard wearing finish to internal woodwork and will not peel or flake. Their ease of application and durability makes them a popular choice for flooring as the finish is robust enough to withstand foot traffic in a domestic setting. They are also compliant with the EN71 safety standard for use on children’s toys and are resistant to the typical spillages that might occur around the house.
Hard Wax Oils don’t need priming before use and can be applied (thinly!) with a brush or cloth. Once dry, they will leave a lightly waxed appearance in a variety of sheens from gloss to dead matt.We sell three brands:
Let’s find out more…
Osmo’s Polyx Oil..
is made from natural plant oils and waxes in a solvent base.
Fiddes Hard Wax Oil..
is very similar in concept to Osmo and blended from natural oils and waxes, also in a solvent base.
Liberon Hard Wax Oil...
is based on Tung Oil and Carnauba Wax and is available in clear satin or matt finishes but is water-based, so it will not alter the original colour of the wood. This makes it ideal if you want retain a more ‘unfinished’ appearance. Being water-based it is particularly suitable for use in humid areas such as kitchens or bathrooms where the solvent-based oils would benefit from a water resistant undercoat. Unlike the other brands, it is necessary to sand between coats using a 240 grit abrasive.
In summary, Hard Wax Oils are an easy application, low maintenance option for floors and general wood finishing. They give a natural feel whilst looking fantastic, and also make it easy to transform the wood finish with relatively little effort.
]]>New decking boards often come with a basic water proofing pre-treatment. This can be checked by dropping a little water on the deck. If it beads on the surface then a pre-treatment has been applied. If this is the case it may take 6 months for the pre-treatment to wear off and until then the deck would not accept a stain or oil. However, Ronseal Decking Cleaner and Reviver can remove these coatings and therefore shorten the time before a new deck can be treated. It may take more than one go, so it's best to do a water droplet test after applying this product. Once the water no longer beads on the surface then the pre-treatment will be gone.
Decking products need to be applied in dry conditions and usually cannot be applied if the ambient temperature is below 10 degrees centigrade. Consequently there is a ‘decking season’ that runs throughout the warmer, dryer months. It would be a good idea to time the installation of the deck, so that it has sufficiently weathered by late spring, by which time the weather has (theoretically!) become more reliable.
If the wood has ‘silvered’ off during the weathering process, then this can be reversed by using a product such as Barrettine Wood Reviver. This will restore the wood to it’s original colour prior to treatment.
Let’s go through them and it will hopefully then make sense! First of all, an explanation of a term that will be repeated throughout this piece: Sealed Wood
Sealed wood refers to a surface that has either been waxed previously or has been treated with a sanding sealer.
The porosity of wood can vary across it’s surface so the application of a sanding sealer to sanded bare wood will provide a consistent base for waxing and avoid the possibility of blotchiness. It will make the surface more durable and give a better sheen.
A long time favourite with furniture and cabinet makers, Briwax Original can be used on bare or sealed wood. It’s available either as a clear wax or in a variety of colours. It contains a solvent called Toluene, which makes the wax easier to apply and to buff up. It’s quite strong, so ventilate well when using Briwax and use suitable protective gloves.
Supreme wax contains an environmentally friendly blend of waxes and can be used on both bare or sealed wood. It is virtually odour free, making it a good choice for use in the home, and is available in clear or coloured versions.
A blend of Beeswax and Carnauba Wax, Mellow Wax is for use on sealed or previously waxed wood. It’s available as a clear wax or four coloured options.
HARRELLS TRADITIONAL WAX POLISH:
A blend of Beeswax and other natural waxes, Harrells has been produced to the same recipe for 90 years by London manufacturer W S Jenkins. It has long been a favourite of antique dealers and furniture restorers and is particularly suitable for applying to sealed wood. It’s available in clear plus 5 coloured options.
LIBERON BLACK BISON PASTE WAX:
Usable on bare or sealed wood, this wax is popular for household use due to it’s pleasant fragrance. It is also safe for use on toys and is available in a wide range of colours plus clear and neutral.
Clear waxes will impart warmth to the surface but the neutral wax will not do this.
Don’t worry when the tin arrives with a hole punched in the middle! It hasn’t had an accident - the wax is poured hot at the factory and needs to ventilate as it cools. The hole is necessary to prevent a vacuum forming.
Liberon also offer a liquid wax, which would be the ideal choice if treating a large area. It is also the best thing to use on rougher surfaces, such as beams.
LIBERON SPECIAL EFFECTS WAXES:
Liberon offer two waxes used to give an aged appearance on a variety of surfaces. Verdigris Wax will produce the green hues of oxidised copper or brass and can be used on wood, metal or plaster.
Black Patinating Wax is used to age modern furniture or to disguise repairs. It is suitable for use on wood, metal, gilt, plaster, MDF and papier mache.
This is used to create a white limed effect on softwoods and hard woods. It is worked into the grain and then the remaining ‘haze’ is removed with a cloth. It can then be given a protective coat of neutral wax or finishing oil.
Renaissance Wax is an extremely versatile product that is widely used in museums and art galleries for the conservation of antiquities. It is pH neutral and can therefore can be used on a wide array of surfaces and leaves a hard glass-clear finish on anything from metal to photographs, protecting the surface from contamination by handling or environmental factors.
Unusually for a wax, it can also be used outside to protect things like sculptures and vintage vehicles.
BRIWAX NATURAL CREAMED BEESWAX:
This can be used to clean wood and revive it’s natural colour. A typical use would be in the restoration and protection of antique furniture as it will enrich the patina acquired over time. It is best used on sealed wood.
]]>The answer is…if you haven’t treated it over the summer then possibly not that much! However, there are still some things you can do.
Most decking treatments need to be applied in dry, warm conditions so the “decking season” typically runs from spring to late summer. In cooler conditions (below 10 degrees C) many products cannot be applied, so routine maintenance is best done during the “season”. Typically these products will have an optimum working temperature range, often between 15-25 degrees C.
Attempting to apply decking finishes to a wet deck or in cool / damp weather will usually result in the job not being successful. Stains may lift and oils may be repelled by residual moisture within the wood. Oils can also develop a white film if they lie on the surface and are then exposed to moisture.
That said, to every rule there is an exception - in this case Rustin’s Quick Drying Decking Oil, which can be applied to a damp (not wet!) deck. Make sure the temperature is above 10 degrees and that no rain is expected during the application and drying period.
Brand new decks need a period of weathering before they can accept a treatment. For softwoods this would be a few weeks but for tightly grained oily hardwoods, this period may be as long as a year.
Before the weather closes in too much you can treat the sawn ends of the decking planks with an end grain sealer. This will inhibit the ingress of water and greatly reduce the risk of the wood swelling or splitting.
Otherwise, keeping the deck clean and free of potential contaminates such as decaying leaves will make sure you will be ready for the new season.
If the wood begins to ‘grey’ and lose it’s natural colour, there are products available to restore the decking to it’s normal state, prior to a finish being applied when the weather improves. These can also deal with any moss, mould or algae growth that may have occurred over winter.
There’s a good chance that there will be price increases before the next decking season starts, so why not take advantage of the current deals on decking products? If we get an early spring you’ll be ready to go!
]]>